I stayed at the Mango Inn as it was free through the UDC dive shop. There were 4 bed dorm rooms, which was nice as they were pretty quiet. Room was clean & bathrooms were always available with hot showers (although I preferred a cold shower as it was HOT in Utila). The only downside was that it was a 15 min walk to the dive shop, which for early morning dives wasn’t ideal.
The main thing to do here is diving! Either for fun dives or to get certified. The Bay Islands are known as one of the cheapest places in the world to get certified so prospective divers flock here! I chose to do my fun dives with Utila Dive Center (UDC). Overall I had a positive experience but it also wasn’t the most amazing experience. It was probably the biggest dive shop I’ve ever dove with and it was run efficiently & professionally. However, it was a little impersonal. That being said, they have a morning boat dedicated to fun divers so you aren’t stuck with newbies I appreciated this. There’s nothing worse than having to end a dive early because someone new is sucking through their air super quickly. Additionally, it was great that my accommodation was included in my dive package. I paid $255 for 6 dives in May 2025.
Beyond diving, I made time to walk around with my camera, especially at sunset. There’s a great spot at Underwater Vision Dive Center to catch the sunset. I also had a massage with Nora, who I just found because she has signs up on the street. It was a pretty basic setup in her house but the massage was awesome! It was $50 for an hour.
Lastly, randomly there was a fishing competition while I was on the island so I joined some new friends to go to part of the final weigh in, which was silly and different.
I would say I enjoyed Utila but it wasn’t my favorite stop. The diving definitely didn’t blow me away. We didn’t really see anything particularly spectacular. There haven’t been whale shark sightings in over a year. I didn’t see any dolphins between dives. It was a cute island, but I much preferred the Corn Islands for diving and for vibes.
I stayed at Hotel Chillies in West End. I snagged a private room for $34 per night and I literally booked it the day before arriving as I last minute decided to leave Utila to spend my last 3 nights in Honduras in Roatan. The hotel is very basic (more like a homestay) but the room and shared bathroom was very clean & comfortable. There’s a tiny shared kitchen and wifi worked. No hot shower in the part of the hotel I stayed in, but I craved cold showers at all times of the day since it was so hot so that didn’t bother me at all. The location is perfect as it’s in the center of town and is across the street from the beach. I would definitely stay here again. There’s also a dive shop as part of the hotel so that was incredibly convenient!
Once again, diving is a big driver of tourism in Roatan. Snorkeling, lying on the beach and drinking yourself silly are also popular pastimes Once again, I honestly wasn’t overly impressed with the diving so I opted to skip more diving after I did one dive.
I think I liked Roatan more than Utila but I still am not feeling like I will return to the Bay Islands anytime soon. There are other islands in the world I have enjoyed more
If you aren’t a diver, then a visit to the Bay Islands will be quite affordable. But if you are going to the Bay Islands, you are probably a diver, or learning to become one
Total: $727 (Daily average: $104)
Transportation to next destination: $230 (Flight to Belize City)
]]>Other destinations to consider:
I stayed one night at Hospedaje Soma because I was arriving late via the ferry and didn’t want to traverse all the way to the other island after a long travel day. Also some friends I met in Colombia 10 months ago would be leaving early the next morning so we decided one night in the port city would be perfect! The hostel was great- it had a pool and AC, which was such a treat! The staff were incredibly generous and even let me store my big backpack there for a few days while I took my smaller backpack with me on a scooter to the other side of the island. Would happily stay here again.
The next three nights I stayed at Urrica Loca in Balgue on the other side of the island. It’s a very cozy, cute hostel. Easy to meet people but not loud. There’s a kitchen and fans for every bed. Plenty of hammocks and picnic tables for chilling. Great location off the main road. Would highly recommend.
Other ideas (but that I didn’t do)
Wow I really loved it here! Having a scooter really made all the difference as I could be completely independent on what to do and when. Also it was quite unexpectedly social. I got to see Tammy (studied Spanish with her in Colombia in May of last year) and her BF for a night. Then I met Tessa (Dutch) and Cat (Australian) who I did the cacao tour and then sunset/dinner. Then Tessa and I spent 2 days scootering all around. While at El Pital I randomly ran into a British guy who I spent 2 days with in Cambodia exploring Angkor Wat. Lastly at Ojo de Agua, Tessa and I met a lovely local couple and chatted to for a bit. Then I ran into them the next day at El Pital and they offered to make us a local/typical dinner and bring it to us at our hostel to enjoy together. It was one of the highlights of Central America so far. Just so generous! I also loved that my Spanish is at a level where I can have dinner with locals now.
De Boca en Boca is a backpacker favorite. Lots of dorm rooms to choose from. The personal fan in each bed was enough to keep me cool at night. There’s a locker for your stuff. The outdoor common area has tons of seating and hammocks. There’s a pool table and a tiny pool to cool off. Free breakfast was great and changed each day. There were also tons of activities during the evening to meet people and they organized plenty of day trips you could sign up for. It’s in a good location, but I wouldn’t walk alone at night anywhere in Granada. 9/10
I grabbed dinner to go from a yummy Mexican spot called Burrocks around the corner that I’d recommend for good, cheap food. It was convenient to grab and then bring it back to eat at the hostel since I didn’t want to walk late on my own.
For brunch/lunch I’d check out Cafe del Arte and The Garden Cafe. Both had lovely ambiances but not the cheapest.
I found a smoothie/bowl place (Pitaya) that was great. I wish I’d found it earlier in my stay in Granada.
I was burnt out from the go go go pace of Ometepe so I mostly just chilled while here.
I did a walking tour, went to the dentist and had a massage (90 min for $35!!). I also did a ton of booking of hostels and flights for the rest of my Central America trip.
Other popular options:
I liked Granada and all its charming, colorful architecture, but I wouldn’t say I fell in love with it. It’s worth a stop in any Nicaraguan itinerary, but I wouldn’t say you need more than 2-3 days. Also a girl at the hostel got beat up while coming back to the hostel late at night, so just be sure to be aware of your safety while here.
I stayed 4 nights at Christina’s Guesthouse which was perfect! It was a 5 min walk to the dive shop and 4 min to most restaurants on the islands. Room had AC, a fan and a little table to sit at. Rocking chair outside the room. There’s no electricity at hotels from 6am-1pm so be prepared for that. It was such a treat to have a private room! I slept fabulously. 10/10
The island is darling! No cars and few people makes for a very cozy, friendly culture. By the end of your stay you’ll recognize most people in town! Everyone says hi to each other as you pass them. My biggest regret is only staying 4 days. I wish I had stayed longer not only because it would’ve given me a better shot at getting to the hammerhead dive spot, but also because this is just a little gem of a spot to spend some time!
I stayed at Poco a Poco hostel, another backpacker favorite. Some rooms have AC (check when you book), but all beds have a personal fan which does a great job of keeping you cool at night. Curtains, personal lights & sockets in the beds. Small pool to cool off in + lots of areas to sit (including long picnic tables and hammocks). Great location close to the center of the city. Lots of restaurants nearby. Cheap breakfast available for $2. Overall, I really liked this hostel. 8/10.
I found a smoothie spot (Jugoso) as well as another Pitaya location to get a smoothie bowl. Pan y Paz was also a good cafe to get a treat at. The food trucks also had some yummy street food so I had dinner at those two of the nights.
The highlight here is sand boarding down a volcano before taking the party bus home! The sand boarding was fun but the party bus was less my scene haha. There are two main companies: Via Via and Bigfoot. I did it with Via Via because it skews smaller & slightly older, while Bigfoot takes a way bigger group, and has even more of a party vibe. Overall its a very similar tour!
You can also go on a great walking tour, check out the cathedral at sunset or head to the beaches of Las Penitas.
Leon was a slightly grungy, but very fun city with lots of energy. It was a great last stop. Worth 2-3 days, but you can certainly stay longer.
Nicaragua is a cheaper destination (for example I averaged only $18 on food per day), but you can easily find ways to spend money, especially if you head to the Corn Islands
Total: $1575 (Daily average: $105)
Transportation to next destination: $84 (Shuttle to El Salvador)
]]>Eden’s Garden hostal – nice free breakfast and a few hammocks. No social vibe at all. Barely met anyone but luckily a couple arrived at the exact same time as me so we ended up hanging out! I’ve never seen this before but the bunks were handmade and you could completely enclose and lock the entire bunk. There was also room to keep your bag up in the bunk at the foot of the bed. Great for privacy and securing your bags but not great for social vibes in the room. Also it was pretty dark. Neighborhood felt safe but I wish I had stayed closer to Casco Viejo (luckily it’s only a 15 min / $5 Uber away). I would try somewhere else next time I was here. 6/10
In Casco Viejo, I tried Mahalo for a cacao banana smoothie. Very aesthetic cafe & beautifully decorated.
Al Alma– small brunch chain based in Colombia with delicious brunch food available all day – so you know I love it I had a French Toast sandwich for an early dinner.
Right around the corner from the hostel I ate at Oh My Burger! with the Dutch couple I met.
Visit Casco Viejo, the beautifully colorful colonial part of Panama. I had fun trying out my new camera here! It’s fun to just walk around the small streets of this old town. Also, visit the RAKO store – super fun store with hand crafted designs like beautiful, colorful bandana. I never shop but managed to spend $50
I also visited Panama Viejo with Alex & Kai. For $17, we got to see the archaeological ruins of old Panama including a robust museum & a bell observation tower.
I didn’t visit the Panama Canal, but that’s a popular activity.
Another popular choice is a day trip to the San Blas islands, but I was too tired and jet lagged to attempt that long day. Pro Tip: If you are headed to Panama from Colombia (or vice versa) you can do a 5 day sailing trip through the San Blas Islands as you head to Panama City. It’s a popular backpacker bucket list item.
I was planning to stay 2 nights (to give myself a full day to recover from my red eye flight), but I ended up meeting the Dutch couple (Alex & Kai) who had rented a car and were headed to Valle de Ánton so instead of waiting around an extra day to then have to take a shuttle, I forwent my second night in Panama city and hopped in the car with them!
I stayed at a Bodhi Hostel & Lounge. Very cute and pretty clean. Free breakfast was great! Lots of areas to lounge indoor and outdoor, including an area to watch movies and lounge beds outside. Dorm bunks are three high so if you are afraid of heights then consider that. I spent one night in the dorm and one night in a private room (such a treat!). WiFi wasn’t the best but it did the job. Picnic table to eat any meals you cook for yourself in the kitchen. I never waited for a bathroom. Curtains and personal plugs in the bunk. Good location in town (but town is small). Helpful with organizing things to do or transport to your next destination. Would stay here again. 9/10
Madre Pizza was right next to the hostel with yummy, reasonably priced pizza. Other than that I mostly ate at local restaurants with $3.50 menu del día meals with my Dutch friends.
There is tons of great hiking (here’s a great list) in El Valle, but Kai had an injury on the bottom of his foot so we picked a shorter, but popular one: India Dormida. After a $3 entrance fee, we quickly got to see some ancient petroglyphs. Then we passed some small waterfalls that you can swim in before or after the hike. Here’s a great guide to it.
After the hike we drove to another viewpoint, which was fairly underwhelming.
The rest of the afternoon I read, walked the main street of the tiny town, and enjoyed my private room by calling a few friends.
I honestly thought I would like this town more but it was little just okay. There wasn’t much to the town and the hiking was pretty but didn’t blow me away. However, it was certainly cool to stay inside the crater of an ancient volcano!
I stayed at an awesome hostel called Bambuda Santa Catalina. It had a hotel vibe but in a good way. Pool is very nice with a swim up bar. Plenty of chaise lounges and seats to read or soak up the sun. Rooms are modern and clean. The four bed dorm has one bunk plus two single, which is awesome. Bathroom is incredibly nice (felt like a nice hotel). There’s a restaurant to eat at (not super cheap but food looked good) or you can walk down the main road 5-20 min to find a variety of other options. Annoyingly no kitchen, but not the end of the world. It overlooks the beach/ocean. I wouldn’t say it was incredibly social but my Dutch friends were staying around the corner so I mostly hung out with them. I loved reading by the pool in all the shady spots they had. 10/10 would highly recommend, even though it’s a little bit of a splurge for a dorm bed.
I ate at three cute spots in town!
My highlight was obviously doing 3 scuba dives in the National Park. We saw over 50 whitetip reef sharks, a bull shark, a huge Hawksbill turtle and 20+ green turtles! It was spectacular and one of the best dives experiences I’ve had. Highly recommend if you are a diver!
Town is tiny, but between a cute cafe, an awesome hostel, and incredible diving, this was my favorite place in Panama! It was sadly my last stop with Kai & Alex, but we had a blast diving together, playing monopoly deal & eating lots of food!
I stayed at Socialtel – wow what a cool hostel. It’s a former Selina hostel so it has a co-working space. Such a cool property with a literal river running through it! Lots of hammocks and spots in the shade to chill. Best of all are the cool cylinder private rooms. I loved how cozy the space was (but there’s little room outside the bed ). Shared bathrooms didn’t bother room, I was just happy to have my own space and a double bed! 10/10 would recommend – especially if you can splurge on a cylinder room.
The main thing to do here is a sunrise hike to the tallest point in Panama. You start at midnight if you want to hike or 4am if you want to take a 4×4 up (the more popular way). I honestly have done so many volcano hikes & I was exhausted from the fast past from the start of my time in Panama, so I decided to just enjoy my cute private room and the hostel property.
It was nice to be up in the mountains as it was a very pleasant temperature each day and cooled off in the evening (very welcome after the past few towns). I enjoyed my very chilled time here. Definitely worth a few days here!
Bocas del Toro is a cute little area filled with tons of islands. There’s the main town aptly called Bocas Town and it has tons of cute beach restaurants and cafes. There’s plenty of hostels to choose from here. However, I stayed on an island a 5 min boat taxi away and it was one of my favorite hostels I’ve ever stayed at. Bambuda Lodge does a great job with everything from the food, to the views, to the social atmosphere, to the volunteers and customer service. Truly impeccable. You are isolated on the island unless you want to take the $5 taxi boat to the main island, which makes everyone hang out together most of the day/evening at the pool or other hangout areas. There are hammocks, a workout room, and plenty of chaise lounges. There’s also a 150 ft slide that goes into the ocean! The volunteers organize a welcome drink every night where everyone goes around and introduces themselves. Fun to see all the friends you are about to make. Also the food is excellent and portions are generous. The fans in the beds were enough to keep you cool at night but just remember you are on an isolated island with minimal infrastructure so don’t expect luxury. 10/10 would love to go back! I ended up extending to 4 nights here.
I ate every meal at the property and loved every meal. Each night you have about 6 dishes to choose from on and it changes each night. Pro tip: Brownies were incredible! The family style meals are great for meeting people!
I didn’t do much besides pester all my new friends with questions about how to construct my Central America itinerary. They were all very helpful and I’m eternally grateful for the information exchange that happens at hostels.
Other than the fun evening activities the volunteers organize like trivia or drinking games, I also went on the island hike to see some of the famous red frogs & huge golden orb spiders. It was a fun way to move my body and meet some of the other travelers!
Other ideas:
Bocas del Toro was a much needed break and I loved spending all day “trapped” at the beautiful resort with all my new friends! Also hilariously I ran into a girl (Bekah) I had met at a hostel 5 years prior in Gili T, near Bali. So random and so delightful!
Panama was definitely not the cheapest destination in Central America, but I also contributed to the high than average spend. Panama can definitely be done cheaper than how I did it
Total: $1,430 (Daily average: $110)
Transportation to next destination: $129 (Bus to San Jose, CR, one night at hostel then bus to Ometepe) Basically I traveled from 9:30am to 5pm the following day straight with 7 hours to sleep in San Jose. This was a very long journey haha.
]]>Of course I am using my 35L Tortuga Setout backpack They don’t sell the exact backpack I have anymore, but here is their latest & greatest! Can’t recommend their bags more. I have used a Tortuga backpack on each of my longterm trips!
Overall tips:
I stayed at La Zona Hostel and it was pretty good. The free breakfast was basic. The beds were capsule style and comfy. AC worked (just make sure to set it to a comfortable temperate as one night it was too hot and the other night was too cold). The area is safe, but there’s not much going on. A few restaurants near-ish by. They had potable drinking water on site. Fairly easy to meet people. I met a group of Canadians to hang with so that was fabulous! Katie, in particular, became a good friend!
Honestly no recommendations, except try some cheap pupusas when you come across them.
I didn’t love the capital We never could find the “cool/fun” center of town to stroll. It all felt very rundown and chaotic. However we always felt safe and given the history of the country, I understand why the city isn’t necessarily bustling (yet). We did a free walking tour was fabulous to get the background on what’s been happening in this lovely country.
The highlight (if you can call it that) was “hiking” to the nearby volcano, but it’s really just a 15 min nature walk. Overall it was nice to see but also if you are going to do the Santa Ana volcano, feel free to skip this one.
Again, not my favorite and would recommend skipping the capital.
We stayed at Rick’s Hostel. The room was huge and the bed was cheap (literally $7.50) so I can’t really complain. BUT the hostel was pretty loud and I gotten eaten by mosquitos. No AC, but the beds had a little fan which did the job (and helped a little with the mosquitos). It was centrally located. Again it was $7 so I have no issues recommending it
Nothing notable. I had some good pupusas from a random spot and a hot dog from one of the stalls in the main square.
When we went to see the ruins though we had a local dish of chicharron + yuca (literally from this town) at a spot right outside the main entrance to the ruins. Absolutely recommend stopping here for a meal.
Main highlights:
Santa Ana was far more charming than San Salvador! 2-3 days here would be plenty to do all the activities mentioned above.
I stayed at a fairly new hostel called Que Ondas. It’s a small but beautiful property at the edge of the small town and you feel like you are in a magical garden. The rooms are nicely done and have curtains. No free breakfast but wifi worked well. Plenty of spots to chill and read and socialize. Would definitely recommend this place.
There are two great pupuserias that are a must try!
Cafes to check out:
Juayua was such a tiny, small town and I loved the slow pace of it. Also the flowers blooming around town were stunning. They don’t call it Ruta de la Flores for nothing 2-3 days here would be perfect. I’d recommend basing yourself in Juayua as it’s probably the biggest town and then just visit the other towns from here.
This was a unique one: Katie (who I met in San Salvador and went to Santa Ana with) went to El Tunco before me and met a Jamaican/American guy who ended up buying a hotel with plans to turn it into a hostel while they were in El Tunco. So by the time I showed up, Katie invited me to stay with her and a bunch of friends she had made that were now staying at the newly purchased hostel. Kemar literally was transforming the place into a hostel while we were there. It was pretty fun to be able to give input on what makes a hostel great and he was super receptive to ideas! It’s now called Karma Muse! It has AC (such a win) and is located about as close to the beach as possible. There are lovely hammocks where you can watch the waves crash on the beach. Highly recommend this spot!
Finally a spot with smoothie bowls!!!
I loved the following spots:
Surf, read in a hammock, eat a smoothie bowl, find a friend with a pool, watch sunset, rinse, repeat.
Life here is so tranquil and just a series of chilling. I love it
This was probably my favorite part of El Salvador. The town is so small so you literally know all the backpackers in town by day 2. It feels like you and your friends are all just running around doing fun, chill stuff all day. One day we sat on the beach and read. One day our friends with a pool invited us over. One day people went to hike the waterfalls nearby. And everyday a bunch of people went surfing and everyday we all would watch sunset on the beach together and then grab dinner. Pure magic!
I missed this destination on my first visit so when I snuck back into El Salvador for a few days while back in Central America, I knew I wanted to go to Espiritu de la Montaña to camp and wake up to the sunrise over views of El Salvador, Nicaragua & Honduras! I struggled to figure out “how” to do this experience but finally found Maravillas de Oriente Tours, who for ~$20 arranged for transport up & down the mountain. It’s a gnarly road so you can either walk it (takes over an hour with lots of elevation) or you can pay this tour company to bring you up on this big overland truck vehicle. It felt like we were on a roller coaster.
Some tents on top of a mountain on an observation deck We were able to rent a tent, sleeping bag & sleeping pad on site when we arrived (costs about $20 for all three).
There is a restaurant as well as a little convenience shop with snacks. I brought a cup of noodles and oatmeal packet with me so I just asked for some hot water and I was all set.
Chat with your new friends and just take in the views. It was magical!
This was a highlight! I loved being up at the top of the viewpoint and just getting to hang out with all the new backpacker friends. It was a very wholesome evening!
El Salvador was so cheap – what a gift before I go to Costa Rica which is unreasonably expensive!
Total: $568 (Daily average: $52)
Transportation to next destination: $225 for my flight from SFO –> San Salvador + $156 for my flight to San Jose, Costa Rica
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